Buying a house to renovate in the UK
Checklist

Love the idea of a fixer‑upper but not the uncertainty. Use this plain‑English checklist before you offer so you understand the potential, the limits and the likely costs.

1) Snapshot checklist

Print or save this and take it to the viewing.

  • Location checks. Is it in a conservation area. Is the building listed. Is it green belt or another designated area.

  • Permitted development basics. Would a modest rear extension or loft conversion be theoretically possible. Confirm later against guidance.

  • Structure and services. Roof condition, signs of movement, damp, outdated wiring or heating. You will still need a survey.

  • Access and light. Can you bring materials to site. Is there side access. What is the daylight like in key rooms.

  • Neighbours. Overlooking and privacy. Party walls in terraces and semis.

  • Parking and storage. Affects daily life and may affect planning.

  • Leasehold. If a flat, ask for the lease, service charge, planned works and consent requirements.

2) Planning and policy quick scan

After the viewing, do a fast policy sense check.

  • Conservation areas and Article 4 directions can limit or remove permitted development rights.

  • Listed buildings need listed building consent for internal and external changes that affect character.

  • Green belt and other designations can restrict extension size and form.

  • Previous approvals on the street can indicate precedent. Search the council portal for the postcode.
    If constraints are likely, an appraisal can map realistic routes before you pay for surveys.

3) Design potential to test on the viewing

  • Kitchen and living. Can you create one generous space without removing all internal walls. Consider where structure and services run.

  • Loft. Is there headroom at the ridge. Roughly 2.2 metres is a useful rule of thumb before construction build‑ups.

  • Side return. On a Victorian terrace, an infill of around 2 metres by 4 metres is common. Check conservation area and party wall factors.

  • Outlook. Will added glazing overheat or overlook. Think orientation and shading.

  • Storage. Is there a logical place for utility, plant and bins.

4) Costs and allowances to sanity‑check

These are order‑of‑magnitude only and vary by region and specification. They help you stress‑test the deal.

  • Build costs. Renovations and modest extensions often fall within broad ranges per square metre. Complex work costs more.

  • Professional fees. Allow for architect, engineer, party wall surveyor, planning and building control fees.

  • VAT. Most renovations attract 20 percent. Conversions can have different rates.

  • Contingency. Add at least 10 to 15 percent for unknowns.

If the sums are tight or the scope is unclear, get an appraisal before you offer.

5) Risks and red flags

  • Structural movement. Cracks wider than a 5 pence coin, sloping floors or sticking doors.

  • Damp and water. Staining, salts at skirting height, musty smell.

  • Services. Old electrics and gas appliances.

  • Rights and access. Shared drives, potential rights of light claims in dense urban areas.

  • Flood risk. Check flood maps and insurance history.

  • Trees. Large protected trees close to foundations.
    These do not always kill a deal. They affect scope, cost and programme.

6) Leasehold and freeholder considerations

For flats and some houses on private estates, alterations can need freeholder consent. Budgets must allow for fees and time. Ask for the lease, planned major works and any building safety issues.

7) Timelines you can actually plan around

  • Allow time for appraisals, surveys and mortgage valuation before exchange.

  • Planning can take eight to twelve weeks plus validation and lead‑in.

  • Expect design and approvals to take months, not weeks. Build slots book up fast.

8) When to bring in an architect’s appraisal

  • When you like the house but cannot see how to make the plan work.

  • When planning policy looks complex.

  • When you need a cost and risk sense check before bidding.

Get impartial clarity now. Book a free discovery call or see appraisal options.

9) FAQs

What is the difference between a survey and an architect’s appraisal. A survey highlights defects. An appraisal tests what you can change, what it might cost and the planning route.


Can I rely on permitted development. Not always. Designations and Article 4 directions can limit or remove it. Confirm context before you rely on it.


Will you help choose an architect after I buy. We remain impartial and do not take follow‑on work. We can signpost independent practices if you wish.


How much budget contingency should I set. At least 10 to 15 percent for unknowns. Complex renovations can need more.

Make a Confident Property Decision

At The Potential House, we specialise in architect-led pre-purchase appraisals. We help homeowners, buyers, and small-scale developers see the bigger picture — so they can make smart, informed decisions before they buy.

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